Which end is up Going over the damage sheet for Markus and Lisa’s canoe in Temagami (Markus Wandel photo)

Off we go then Montréal River, at the put in. We’re ready to roll.

See the black speck We think it’s an eagle. But we don’t know. And my telephoto is just way too heavy to take on such a trip as this.

Heading down Lady Dufferin Lake Lisa leans into it. (Markus Wandel photo)

Lisa and Markus on Lady Dufferin Lake

Michael leaves us eating wake despite soloing. Michael was leading the way.

David Kirsch’s dedication plaque Someone can do this for me when I die. I wouldn’t mind. Smoothwater Lake.

Smoothwater Lake Lisa checking out the recliners at the David Kirsch memorial campsite. (Markus Wandel photo)

Smoothwater Lake Sunset.

Smoothwater Lake Quite the spread you can put on if you have the proper furniture. (Markus Wandel photo)

Early morning, Smoothwater Lake A quiet moment before the breakfast frenzy.

Marina Lake I deeked down the portage at our campsite to check out Marina Lake. So there you have it.

Smoothwater in fog The most beautiful canoe trip morning I’ve experience in some time.

Ken Ken, Michael and I took turns soloing. Ken cut a particularly fine figure in the Osprey, I thought.

There’s a shore out there Ken paddling south on Smoothwater

Sunrise on Smoothwater Almost extraterrestrial.

Ken on Apex Lake Or is it? He’s not nearly filthy enough for Apex Lake.

The shore starts to appear Chris and Michael head towards the mud bath (Markus Wandel photo).

Gleaming through trees Morning, Smoothwater Lake

Lisa experiences the pack It’s a big yellow rubber blob. And it weighs a lot.

Good advice Someone with a laundry pen who doesn’t mind bending over on a portage.

Smoothwater to Apex The leaves were already fallen along this trail.

First site of Ishpatina ...came (I think) on Mihell Lake?

Mihell to McCulloch Ken brings the big banana across.

Lunch on Scarecrow We’d made fairly good time (four hours from Smoothwater) but we were due for a food break. (Markus Wandel photo)

The island on Scarecrow Some writeups say it’s too small. They’ve got a point, but it seemed better than the others on this lake. (Markus Wandel photo)

Not the trailhead This would seem to be the trailhead. It’s not.

Not a ranger cabin, Scarecrow Lake This is where I understood the trail to start. It doesn’t. Have I whined about that enough? (Markus Wandel photo)

In search of the trail head We head off along the shore looking for the trail. (Markus Wandel photo)

Trust machines, not your eyes The actual trailhead. I’m checking my GPS to discover that it was right and my eyes were wrong. (Markus Wandel photo)

Root fire at the trailhead This is what you’re actually looking for. (Markus Wandel photo)

Markus Pausing en route to Ishpatina Ridge.

Almost there en route to Ishpatina Ridge, maybe 500m from the tower you can get a glimpse of it.

Michael got a bit of a workout a tad sweaty is our eccentric hero.

Summit shot Well, it is a canoe trip after all.

Was that magnetic north? Michael may need to take Nigel’s navigation course again.

Fire tower atop Ishpatina ridge. It looks solid, but the ministry doesn’t want you to climb it.

Scarecrow Lake from Ishpatina The island on the near shore is our campsite.

Firetower (Markus Wandel photo)

The coffee being Michaels typically failsafe coffee production method. (Markus Wandel photo)

Milking time at the Nalgene ranch (Markus Wandel photo)

Michael insisted ...on doing the dishes, pretty much all the time. We like Michael.

Badger Balm Michael’s first aid kit even had stuff in it for psoriatic badgers. He thinks of everything. But is it food?

Talking the canoes out for a walk In search of new things, Day 3. (Markus Wandel photo)

Headwaters Ken and Mike pose beside the headwaters of the mighty Stull Creek.

Back after a day trip Chris composes fiction while Michael plans the next trip. (Markus Wandel photo)

Mappies by headlamp (Markus Wandel photo)

See how small my pack is? I can fit inside it, if I want, Ken says.

Old two shoes relaxes One tough cookie.

Smoothwater-Apex The mud continues. Ah - but this only one leg and not even up to the knee. (Markus Wandel photo)

Lunch, Smoothwater Lake We’ve all got our game faces on here, clearly. (Markus Wandel photo)

Lunch regime Ken combines peanut butter and jam into a single refillable nalgene tube. (Markus Wandel photo)

Not a proper nap... unless you’re lying on rock, head below your heart. It’s character building. (Markus Wandel photo)

We don’t need this canoe after all ...we can walk on water. I knew we were good but, ah dare I say...

Constructing Fort Smoothwater seeking some respite from the wind. (Lisa Pugliese photo)

No longer a newb Markus has got that seasoned, serious look to him now. (Lisa Pugliese photo)

Michael Mais oui, Josephine, I’m as sane as you. (Lisa Pugliese photo)

Warmth strategy Lisa harvests warm rocks from the fire (Markus Wandel photo)

Can’t this thing go any higher? I’m wearing almost all my clothes. (Markus or Lisa photo)

Low light, flapping tarp Way early, Tuesday morning.

Boats on a leash We tied the canoes to a tree in case the wind got uppity with them.

We’re done After a hard slog into the wind, we arrive at the take out. (Markus Wandel photo)

Details and ammunition? A bush chicken? Uh.. you mean like annoying tourists. Grouse, actually, I believe.